The lower deck of the Star Ferry is the best cheap seat in Hong Kong. At night the harbour air comes straight through the open sides, the skyline sits close across the water, and the crossing lasts just long enough to finish a conversation. We have taken it on every visit, and it has not got old.
We keep returning to Hong Kong, and the trips that work best follow the same pattern: a well placed hotel, simple mornings, and evenings loose enough to change direction. This time a friend travelled with us and we split the stay around Shenzhen. Three days in Hong Kong, a few across the border, then three more back in the same room.
Base yourself in Tsim Sha Tsui
We stayed at The Langham for both halves of the trip. From Tsim Sha Tsui the harbour, the MTR and more restaurants than we could get through were all within walking distance. Coming back to a familiar hotel after Shenzhen meant there was nothing to figure out the second time. We dropped the bags and went straight back out.
Choose a hotel by where your evenings are likely to end. For a trip built on walking and on crossing the harbour in both directions, Tsim Sha Tsui is hard to beat.
The Langham also runs a cocktail class, and ours was taught by Randall. We arrived with requests ranging from gin drinks to martinis to something involving peanut butter. He explained why each combination worked before he showed us how to build it, which is the part most classes skip. Ask the hotel what is running when you book.
Get on the water, then get off the main roads
The MTR will handle most of your journeys. Learn it on the first day and the city opens up.
Save the Star Ferry for after dark. Take a tram or sit on the upper deck of a bus at least once, too; both move slowly enough to show you the streets between the places you planned to go.
Ride a red Crown Comfort taxi while they are still on the road. Ours sounded like it was working through something personal. The driver remained entirely unbothered. It was the least elegant journey of the trip and the one we still bring up.
Eat breakfast at a cha chaan teng
Milk tea, eggs and toast at a cha chaan teng is the right way to start a Hong Kong day. We went to Australia Dairy Company on a recommendation. Expect brisk, efficient service and a short stay. You are there to be fed and sent on your way, and you will be.
Book the few meals that matter to you and leave the rest open. Several of our dinners changed because a friend knew somewhere nearby, and having room to say yes paid off every time.
If your dates line up with a Wednesday race meeting, give one of those evenings to Happy Valley. Our guide covers admission, timing and the pitcher.
Leave one evening empty
Our best night of the trip started with friends, picked up people we had met only hours earlier, and ended in a karaoke bar in Central. The singing was terrible. Nobody appeared concerned.
Afterwards someone led us to Holy Eats, where we had eaten years before with an entirely different group. The welcome was as warm as the first time.
You can't book a night like that. You can leave one evening with nothing in it, and Hong Kong will usually fill it for you.
The details
Checked 19 September 2026.
Octopus: Physical and mobile cards work differently. Pick the version that suits your phone and how you pay. Official tourist Octopus options
Happy Valley: Racing usually runs on Wednesday evenings from September to July, with exceptions. Confirm the date and venue. Official Happy Wednesday information
Cash: Carry some Hong Kong dollars alongside your cards.
Late nights: Check the last service on your route home, and book hotel experiences such as the cocktail class directly.
Shenzhen: Check entry requirements and the West Kowloon departure procedure before you buy train tickets. Our Shenzhen guide covers the crossing.